California Cabs come to SoHo

City Winery made Cabernet Sauvignon from four California vineyards in 2008, three in Napa Valley and one in Lake County. All are very well regarded sites. They were selected to offer City Winery's members a wide range of stylistic options for their wine and because we had the opportunity to contract with some of the best growers in the region.

We'll start with Obsidian Ridge which in situated in the newly designated Red Hills Lake County viticultural area located at the southern end of Clear Lake. Aptly named, the vineyard is composed of very young volcanic soils with veins of obsidian running throughout. We expected a tightly structured wine from Obsidian Ridge and our tasting did not disappoint. It is a focused wine with mineral, floral and fruit elements swirling in competition supported by firm acidity and considerable tannins. Concentrated boysenberry and menthol flavors were followed by cedar, sweet tobacco and high toned oak elements. Of the Cabernets in our cellar this was perhaps the most austere and restrained at the moment but it promises to open up beautifully as it matures thanks to its solid acid/tannin structure.

Moving south from Lake County, our next Cabernet is from Haystack Peak located in the Atlas Peak viticultural area of northern Napa valley. David Lecomte worked with this vineyard while based in California and we're extremely pleased that he brought his contacts along with him to NYC. While the pleasures of the Obsidion ridge might be called "intellectual" the Haystack Cab is a hedonist's delight. It's just plain yummy. On the nose aromas of rose, anise, ripe cherries and chai tea burst from the glass. The body of the wine is luscious and supple, almost creamy, with intensely focused fruit compote flavors. It's difficult to imagine anyone not loving this wine.

Heading further south into the heart of Napa Valley we next encounter the vineyard of Larry Bettinelli & Mike Browning near Oakville. The reputation of the Bettinelli vineyard for rich yet elegant wines is well established. We consider ourselves quite lucky to have been able to work with this fruit in 2008. Our tasting revealed an extremely well proportioned wine, a dancer - sinuous yet graceful. Deep dark plum, raisin and black cherry dominated with cassis and smoke on the finish. We all agreed that this wine reminded us of a fine Bordeaux in its structure and its finesse.

Finally we have our Mystery Cab. We are not allowed to publicize this property but it is among the most prestigious of the Rutherford Bench area in Napa. Again, we consider ourselves most fortunate to have secured such fine grapes for our members. Whether from old or new oak, the wine showed the tell tale dusty rose character found in many vineyards established on Rutherford's gravelly loam soils. While the Bettinelli recalled St. Estephe, this wine is unmistakably Napa. It has lovely lilac and violet aromas which mingle with blackberry and yellow plum flavors. Already this wine is developing secondary and tertiary complexities; we noted nutmeg, sweet herbs and tobacco flavors lingering on the palate supported by supple tannins. Not surprisingly this and the Bettinelli were our first lots to sell out with members. Ah well, there's always next year for those of you who missed out. Or, if you can't wait that long, consider participating in our small Spring crush with fruit from Argentina. Next time, we'll examine our Chardonnay and Sauvingnon Blanc lots.

David Lecomte / Robert Kowal

Head Winemaker David Lecomte can be reached at david@citywinery.com.